HD Front axel shaft and CV joints?

[sami/B]

Hi, finally i got the car on a hard test...
And then it happened, what I thought would happen.
After trying to pull up a car that got stock, one of the front CV joints now have some bad nois.
Is ther any stronger axels with CV joints that fits? What do the Icelandic folks with 44" and ultra low gears use?

here is some bonus pics from the weekend (or should i say weakend? )








More pics here: http://offroadershaggum.com/bilder/2013 ... g-touring/

(edit: url)

[HaffiTopp]

Those original CV joints are pretty strong and durable, even on 44" tires. But bat things can happen if you take in mind how much the car has been driven and the joints have taken their beating.
Which way were you driving when you gave him the pull?

[sami/B]

Those original CV joints are pretty strong and durable, even on 44" tires. But bat things can happen if you take in mind how much the car has been driven and the joints have taken their beating.
Which way were you driving when you gave him the pull?

Hi,
They are? I was driving almost straight forwad, slightly to the right.
So the stock CV don't brake with 44"s on f.ex sand or mud?

[logimar]

It seems to me that your car is very high on the front end so if you hav´nt gone trough the prosess of lowering the front axel you have probably thigtened the torsoin bars so that the axels which go from the main axel to the front wheels are pointing very much downvards. That puts the CV joint in a bad position, in other words "it's bent" so that exstreme power going through the joint can cause it to brake. The whole point of the prosess of lowering the front axel is to get the axels betveen the main axel and the wheel in a level position, then you will get a proper power transfer trough the CV joint and much less risk of damaging it. You have probably seen the lowering prosess in my pictures of the Musso modifycation, it alls serves a purpose. L.M.

[HaffiTopp]

And tho I say that these joints are strong, even for big tires you have to have in mind that when you upgrade your car this extreme the pressure and strain rises relatively as one or other thing become bigger, heavier or larger. And the type of front drive setup doesn't matter in this matter thus all things will brake down some time. Solid front axle or independent suspension have their strong and weak points.
Many cars here in Iceland still have IFS on bigger wheels and there are few of the IFS/IRS Pajeros on 44" tires here on the roads for example. Many 44" LandCruisers 120, and one of the most popular car for a long time was the Toyota HiLux with IFS. The ball joints seem to be the weakest link when you go on bigger tires. So like logimor points out the axle have to bee as straight as possible ant that's why the bodylift is more common than lowering the front diff cause that takes less work and is easier to do.

[sami/B]

Thank you for all the replays!
ok, so lowering the front axel it is. Or... fitting a live axle?
I'v do got a live dana 30 axle from a charokee, how much more work is it to fit that little buddy? Is it even worth it?
i assume that the diff gear from the musso dana fits with the jeep dana axle? Or is it the same ratio?

Thanks /Sami

[sami/B]

Any idéas? :)